HELP....hurry quick Cartech 2005i question???

[lundgren]

Fuel pressure guage, and a wide band o2 sensor on a dyno.

I have 310 injectors, and it's all the way out, meaning slow rise rate. This is not the case with stock injectors, and I also have 8psi. All the way in, is a high rate, and will near 100 psi or more.

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http://www.netbsi-kc.com/integra/
http://www.netbsi-kc.com/aa/
http://www.groupbuycenter.com/

[Holden]

I have the bleeder on mine fully closed. At 8psi boost on gauge, 6psi setup, FP goes up to 92-95psi.

What was that O-ring for? I couldn't figure it out and didn't use it.

BTW, I used the restrictor and check valve, not that they do much with the bleeder closed.

Greg

[Bigkat]

YES, I'm still waiting on fuel press gauge

I installed my FMU Wednesday and I am having leanout problems. FP at idle is a fluctuating 39-41psi. FMU is still at factory settings. Note: I also used the o-ring when installing the side needle valve. Question: Do we install restrictor into signal line from the FMU to the FPR? I noticed on Lunds site he said not to install this restrictor, but was confused with his answer to SC hybrids question.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by SC HYBRID:
somebody please help me on how to tune the cartech FMU. Lund,JRCIVIC,anybody that knows.how do i tune it properly,im going to install the 9psi pulley tomorrow and want to tune it properly.I've installed the Bosch pump,RC 310's,and the Cartech FMU and im running pretty rich now.i try adjusting the cartech by unscrewing the allen bolt,but it will not go below 40psi. What should my idle fuel pressure be ?im also installing an electric fuel pressure gauge tomorrow.how does the bleeder valve on the cartech FMU work ?and lastly,do i need the restrictor in the vaccum line on the FMU? i really appreciate anybody that can help me.

thanks alot in advance.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by lundgren:
For starters make SURE you have the restrictor in the line. It will ramp up quick enough with it, but without it you WILL NOT be able to lower pressures with the bleeder on the cartech FMU.

So put the restrictor IN, then set the bleeder most of the way screwed in but not all the way. NEVER set it for full open, it's way too lean.

Then get your car onto a dyno with a wide band o2 sensor to tune it out, or if you have the safeguard on the car and an A/f meter you can get it close, but you'll be missing 10 hp unless you get it onto the dyno to tune it, and also to make sure with the wide band o2 sensor that it's not too lean.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

[lundgren]

Yes you need the restrictor in the signal line. You also need the check valve in the bleeder line.



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http://www.netbsi-kc.com/integra/
http://www.netbsi-kc.com/aa/
http://www.groupbuycenter.com/

[Bigkat]

Thank you Lund

How can you tell how much you need to open bleeder line(needle valve)?
TIA

[JRCivic]

Sorry I got here sooo late Bigkat...

If you still need tuning help with the Cartech, call me at the shop.
(205) 798-0112

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'93 Civic Si H/B with B18C1, JRSC @ 8psi
Best 1320: 12.68 at 110 mph

[Bigkat]

Thanks guys, I don't know what is wrong. I was getting some lean out problems or something or fuel pump was being over work. I'm not sure......I know I need to get the fuel gauge in the cockpit. I went ahead last night and installed my RC 310's. The car feeels a lot stronger. I have the screw on top of Cartech out more than I did with stock injectors. I also have the bleeder half open. I'm leaning idle down with SAFC and B&M. I running around 35psi w/vac and 43psi w/o vac. I think I will upgrade my fuel lines pretty soon. Relieve some more stress on my H22 pump(lines on Lude are larger any way). Thanks again

[This message has been edited by Bigkat (edited August 12, 2000).]